Speedo drive gearbox .. undo speedo cable ..

[dave16mct]

It's another of those horrible designs on our bikes we have to put up with. I get over it by making a 'nut' from thick nylon about 2" long. I make a deep countersink in the hole and the seat screw finds it's way easily. It's like a nyloc so doesn't need to be tight. At the front I have a lifting handle threaded onto the seat stud so only need one tube spanner.
Dave.

[raffles]

Ref
rear seat fixing. I weld a nut on the inside of the subframe but have also used double sided tape
to hold the nut in position
Tony

[Taid]

- see here:



When you have the wheel off I suggest you file a couple of flats onto the adaptor to allow it to be restrained in situ with a ground down spanner and then bond it back in place with structural adhesive or JB Weld. Oh and don't do the speedo cable gland nut up so tight

Regards Mick

Got the wheel out in the end and, after a great struggle, managed to disconnect the cable from the gear box (Take box and cable off the bike, then vice, mole grips, hammers, punches, screwdrivers) .. decided not to use the old gearbox .. too many battle scars to leave for a FO ..

So .. to get a new unit .. I am a bit suspicious of this one anyway .. it is marked BG5330/31 and a search on the net only brings up Norton, Triumph BSA, and the label giving greasing details is upside down, as though it was intended for a Left Hand side fitting, though it does work ok .. I can't find a number for the AJS/Matchless product. Club spares show something but it says it needs reaming for the spindle hole and I don't fancy trying to keep swarf out of the works. Feked do one which is available with a 24mm hole, which is the size on my existing unit ..

So, gents, with your years of knowledge and buckets of patience .. where do I go now?

Thanks In Advance

[Mick D]

too many battle scars to leave for a FO

Hi

Get a good set of needle files and cosmetically restore the component - there was nothing wrong with it except perhaps the spline coupling having failed, (fix this with adhesive). Buying a new one seems to be a bit of a bad lottery at the moment.

Regards Mick

[Taid]

Certainly that would be the economical way to do it, and could I get it apart, I would certainly consider it, but it appears as though once the end pieces had been inserted, the case was locally subjected to a high pressure which distorted the interior in such a way that it prevents the removal but, unfortunately, doesn't prevent it rotating.(bit difficult to describe) .. you can see the (exaggerated) depression where the pressure has been applied at the end of the video you linked .

[Mick D]

Hi

If that's the case the locating lug must have broken off, in which case I'd suggest drilling the case to accept a roll pin to prevent rotation of the adaptor.

At the end of the day, there's very little torque applied by the drive, just tightening the outer and it's rigidity would be enough to secure it

Regards Mick

[Taid]

Thanks MD for all your guidance ..

Cleaned it all up and reassembled it, but put araldite on the last half of the drive cable fitting (I know what I mean... ) before driving it home .. working fine and no untoward noises when I spin the wheel .. provide nobody seriously over tightens the cable nut should do many miles ..

I relearned the term 'Staking' from my days as an apprentice at Joseph Lucas as I was reading up on the speedo gearbox .. I don't think you actually ever 'forget' anything .. you just mislay the memory ..