AJS & Matchless Owners Club

I need to remove the primary chaincase on my 67 G15 mk 2 as the oil I put in it yesterday had all deposited itself on the garage floor by this morning. I had tried to tighten all screws last night once I saw it was dripping. Looking at the Norton Hybrids manual in the archives I am unsure what I will encounter when taking off the cover in terms of the alternator which is working well at the moment. Is it attached to the cover or bolted to the inner?

Hopefully I can take the cover off apply some Welseal, and simply bolt it back on leak free. Any pointers as to what I may run into in the way of complications?

Bolted to the cover but you should be able to open a gap.

Stator is attached to the outer cover. There should be a gasket between the halves. If the cables are long enough you might be able to fit one without disconnecting but I've always had to disconnect and then rethread cables through the small grommet. If the stator has been there for some time, the cables and sleeving can be very brittle.

Clive , the inner cover has a spacer between the crankcase and inner with 3 screws to attach. there should be a gasket , but in your case id recommend taht you dont take the inner cover off asm misalignment of the inner will reduce the gap between rotor and stator. with the leak you have described it cant be this interface .
In addition the engine sprocket is on a taper that can be very tight , you will need to use a puller and apply tension then wait for it to separate
Id strongly recommend a endless primary chain as the a spring link will fail and trash the primary cover and maybe more

primary cover is essential the same as on G12 etc.. , but with the later bulged alternator cover
fit the 'green' oillite type (soft) gasket with grease to soften not a paper gasket and usually you can make it oil tight
Russel motors have them in stock

give me a ring if you want to discuss in more detail

Thanks everyone. Being a bodger at heart I am going to try Welseal first and if that does not work I will move on to a gasket. Teething troubles are being solved!

ps managed to start it again today and avoided the broken leg when it kicked back after one half hearted attempt!

Unless the chaincase faces are perfect welseal is not the answer this time, unless you particularly like doing a job twice.

I agree with Duncan, as I have experienced Weelseal without paper gasket. The chaincase was leaking as a basket ! Then I made again a seal with Loctite silver grey silicon stuff, after a good clean of the mating faces with acetone and brake cleaner, and it was fine. For chaincase silicon is not an issue. When dry, you can "shave" the compound, or clean it with white vinagar.

clive wrote: ps managed to start it again today and avoided the broken leg when it kicked back after one half hearted attempt!

I had an extra 2" welded into the kickstart lever on my G15CS, makes a big difference!

Slightly off topic but I've found that kick-starting is an art and somewhat of a misnomer in that if you do “kick” then it will end in tears or tears, to tendons etc. (what a wonderful language we have). You also have to be determined and deliberate in pushing the kickstart round with your foot and to keep contact with the kickstart pedal otherwise the pedal can give you a nasty “kick”

Well I got the cover off yesterday to find two of the cables had been cut through, or broken from too sharp a bend. All soldered now and off to the garage to replace. Will try silicon sealant as suggested by Jean Noel. report back later.

Duncan wrote:Unless the chaincase faces are perfect welseal is not the answer this time, unless you particularly like doing a job twice.

Bodgers are used to doing the job more than once Duncan!