1955 G9 recommission

[AFSMatchie61]

No, I’ve never seen gearbox oil any shade except clear and don’t see how it could get that black without the addition of combustion products so I think it’s used engine oil. The PO was riding it like this after being stored since the 80’s,l - incredible….

[AFSMatchie61]

Pretty grim filters…

IMG_8643.jpeg

IMG_8639.jpeg

[AFSMatchie61]

I’m trying to figure out the wiring, of course the colours are all over the place and don’t match the original wiring diagram colours so to help I have scribbled it down as it is.

Please can someone suggest where the blue wire should be connected? It runs from the ammeter and headlight switch but is not connected at the other end of the loom (by the battery). I have circled it in pink highlighter

I think most of the rest is correct but please feel free to comment!

Currently only the horn works but the lightswitch is in poor condition and being replaced.

The regulator is a new looking Wassell job.

IMG_8675.jpeg

Many thanks

[Groily]

There should be a wire from regulator 'A' to the ammeter / switch. I think that is what the blue wire does and that therefore the bare end should go to Regulator terminal A, the black wire in your sketch. Which shouldn't go direct to the battery.

I say this - but you need to check what terminal at the light switch the blue wire is on. Should be on terminal 3 on a typical 'OFF L H' Lucas switch, and linked to one side of ammeter with the battery linked to the other side of the ammeter (your POWER! wire).

For the colours, you can suit yourself really unless trying to do a completely 'to original spec' job. Personally, with Pos Earth I like a RED wire from batt + to earth and a black or blue one off the NEG side to the ammeter, but often Black was used for earths, as the attached typical diagram shows. I also like a fuse!

There are several minor areas of choice in these things: a spliced wire from ammeter and switch like your blue one that goes nowhere, or a short separate link from Terminal 3 switch to ammeter (same thing); wires off the switch to each headlamp filament, or just one to the dipswitch and do the filaments from there; brake light wired via ammeter or not, etc. But they all come to much the same.

The standard diagram attached gives the gist - yours is pretty close to that, subject to what is connected to what switch terminals.

[AFSMatchie61]

Thank you very much that’s very helpful. Here is photo of the switch that does indeed show the blue wire going to terminal 3 (Via a selection of dead spiders).

IMG_8667.jpeg

What confuses me is the instructions for the regulator shown below that has the black wire going to a fuse and then negative battery terminal? It does have a fuse.

image.jpg

But then I am easily confused..

[Groily]

That's good, thought it would, so that means that blue bare end goes to the regulator A terminal, or the black wire off it.

The schematic is a v simplified one. If you look at where the black and then blue wire would go, it's REG - ammeter/switch - and back to BATTERY from other side of ammeter (POWER!). So it's the same idea - just has the ammeter in the line so you'll see what's happening in terms of charging (or not). The instructions were written to take account of the fact that not all bikes had ammeters I suppose.

That switch doesn't look so bad. If the contacts work well after a dose of WD40 or whatever to encourage the guts to ping around as they should, and if the outside isn't all broken, I'd keep it personally as the Lucas ones are better than a lot of the replicas (whatever name they have on them).

What matters is that it works correctly to provide headlight juice off position 2, then side/tail/speedo off 4 and 5. It uses the two terminals for these so that the front side light can go OFF when the headlight goes ON, but the tail and speedo stay on in both switch positions. (Wouldn't matter if the side stayed on frankly, as it's not a power-hungry thing.) The rest doesn't do anything you really care about on these, and replicas often have a big brass toggle-type bit on the back that looks very self- important, but adds nothing useful for our present purpose, just confuses.

Then you can focus on the 'orrible oil filters and the extraordinary yuk that came out of the gearbox . . . fingers crossed the oily bits are in serviceable shape . . . . wouldn't bank on it though, crankshaft sludge risk and all that would worry me a bit I think.

[AFSMatchie61]

Thanks that makes sense, will give it a go tomorrow.
I’ve got low expectations for the engine although the box changes well but we’ll see….

[AFSMatchie61]

I’m waiting for some parts including the new light switch and some oil hose but I’ve been picking away at the rear end including a ‘new’ swinging arm and primary are back together, with a new tyre, tape and tube on the wheel.

The oil tank is held in place by through bolts that also hold the battery carrier in place against the frame, as you can see when it’s in place the oil tank flexibles are at quite an angle; I have more hose on order to add longer sections but still wonder why this is so. Should I anneal the copper pipes and bend them in a bit?

The rear wheel speedo drive, what should I adjust and why on the RHS? I don’t understand what I’m trying to achieve and what the risks are.
On the left hand side there are two nuts, one to tighten the brake plate and one to tighten the axle. Shoukd the brake plate nut be as tight as the axle nut?

IMG_8692.jpeg

image.jpg

image.jpg

Cheers!

[dave16mct]

Yes good idea to anneal the oilpipes and bend them carefully to fit. The 2 nuts on the axle: the inner tightens the dummy spindle. The outer only only tights the axle. So if you get a puncture you only remove the outer nut and speedo drive cable. Then the spindle can be pulled out and the wheel can be removed leaving the sprocket /brake drum in place. Yes tighten them both the same.
Dave.

[AFSMatchie61]

Thank you Dave, I understand now.
Many thanks